If you happen to be glancing upon this site for the very first time, right now, it would be quite understandable if your first impressions are that this site must be sponsored by HP. And why not? After all, HP is everywhere around here. It dominates the gallery, and previous posts rave about it. Chances are that our own dear Adham is looking…no, staring across the table at you right now, right past a bottle of Birmingham’s finest. Yes, we are partial to HP Sauce around here, and for good reason. It is the first true British Brown Sauce and as such will always hold a special place on these pages. It is not however the only British Brown Sauce worthy of our attention, and no…we are not in any way sponsored by HP/Heinz. We simply like the stuff you see…a lot!

A good Brown Sauce can take an ordinary meal and help turn it into something special. It adds a tangyness, a richness to the food that only a Brown Sauce can. That ’something special’ has a lot to do with what constitutes its makeup, the very essence which make a Brown Sauce a “Brown Sauce”. So is a Brown Sauce a “Brown Sauce” simply because it’s brown? Not at all. Is it a “Brown Sauce” because it’s British? Again, not entirely. It is a combination of things that, when put together make up that rich, tangy malt flavour we know and love. If I were to narrow it down to two ingredients however it would be these: Malt Vinegar (from Barley) and Spirit Vinegar. Those two ingredients are at the core of a good Brown Sauce, but again, on their own they do not a Brown Sauce make!

Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce is a good example. The first two ingredients in this sauce are in fact Malt Vinegar (from Barley) and Spirit Vinegar. Worcestershire sauce is not what I would classify as “Brown Sauce” however. For a start, its taste is absolutely unique, and it’s application quite different as it is typically used in cooking whereas Brown Sauce is used more often as a condiment. The two DO compliment each other brilliantly, but they are not the same. Nor should they be. Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce is in a league all its own and while there are “other” Worcestershire sauces, the ones available on store shelves here in Canada are but poor imitations whom often skimp by with less expensive ingredients. Hardly worth the $1.00 or so savings over the genuine article! The point here is that these sauces don’t try to succeed by doing their own thing. Instead, they imitate, and fail miserably at it.

So where does leave us with todays review du jour? Lets find out as we review Crosse & Blackwell’s Branston Rich & Fruity Sauce. Does Branston’s Rich & Fruity stack up as a proper Brown Sauce? Or is it some thinly disguised imitation of the real thing?

Before I get started, I should give credit to our friend David Bradbury of Devon who first introduced us to his favourite HP Mexican Chilli sauce - a variety which has sadly since been discontinued. So enthusiastic was Mr Bradbury about this HP variety that he sent us a bottle to sample and review and fortunately for us he also included a bottle of Branston Rich & Fruity Sauce, a sauce to which we were previously unacquainted! I became so smitten with the Branston sauce that by the time I reached the bottom of the bottle, I realized I had not yet conducted a proper review! It was then all too late since all that remained of it was an empty bottle discarded at the bottom of our recycling bin! Luckily, I was very fortunate to find another bottle from an alternate supplier so that I can deliver a proper introduction to this tasty sauce.

Branston
Rich & Fruity
Brown Sauce

HP
Mild & Tangy
Brown Sauce
When evaluating a new sauce like Branston Rich & Fruity, it is probably best to compare it an old familiar favourite such as HP Mild & Fruity Sauce. While both Branston and HP are marketed as “fruity” variety Brown Sauces, there is however a distinction to be made here, and it becomes obvious if one pays attention to how each sauce is branded. The HP brand marketed its sauce as first Mild, then Tangy and so it comes across on the palette. First impression of HP Mild & Tangy is that of a milder version of the original with a malty, fruity finish. Indeed, over the past couple of years I have heard many a compliment for this variety from people who have written in to say how they actually prefer the Mild & Tangy variety to the original as they find the original a bit spicy. Unfortunately, I’m told the availability of the HP Mild & Tangy variety has become very scarce in recent months (UK) which leaves us speculating whether Heinz has in fact discontinued it.

Tasting the Branston Rich & Fruity immediately following a sample of HP Mild & Tangy, it is apparent that it too tastes just as the name suggests, and in the same order. Branston Rich & Fruity has a bolder start than the HP and the texture thicker. Branston also has a less fruity finish than the HP but instead leaves the tongue lingering with a citrus flavour. It is also a bit spicier but not so much as to overpower the flavour. Some people I’ve spoken to have been put off by the citrus finish, a trait which is also present in the Branston Rich & Tangy variety. While I can understand this view at first glance (taste!), I quickly loose this perspective when using it on my favourite Bacon & Tomato sandwiches. Here the citrus flavour compliments the tomato very very well! It’s as though they were designed for each other, and therein lies the real test. If a Brown Sauce is indeed a true “Brown Sauce”, then there can be only one response when used on a bacon sandwich. YUM!! In this area, Branston does not disappoint!

When combined side by side, I have a hard time deciding which one I like more as each has their own distinctive taste. I love the malty finish to the HP, but I also really like the richness of the Branston. The verdict? Tie! Branston does not try to be an imitator. Rather, they have produced a quality Brown Sauce which stands on its own merit. If you haven’t yet tried Branston Rich & Fruity sauce, I highly encourage you to do so. Throw a tomato in your sarnie as well and I hope you’ll find it as tasty as I do.

Lets compare the ingredients listing for both sauces:

HP Mild & Tangy: Fruit 70% (Tomatoes, Dates, Tamarind Extract, Oranges), Spirit Vinegar, Glucose - Fructose Syrup (from wheat), Malt Vinegar (From Barley), Sugar, Salt, Mango Chutney (Sugar, Mango, Vinegar, Salt, Chilli), Modified Maize Starch, Molasses, Rye Flower, Spices, Flavourings, Pectin.

No artificial colours, No artificial preservatives, No artificial flavours, Suitable for Vegetarians

Branston Rich & Fruity Sauce: Tomato Puree, Sugar, Spirit Vinegar, Malt Vinegar, Apples (with Preservative: Sulphur Dioxide), Date Paste (with Rice Flour), Modified Maize Starch, Salt, Molasses, Concentrated Lemon Juice, Spices, Colour: Sulphite Ammonia Caramel, Onion Powder, Garlic Powder.

Suitable for Vegetarians

Summary

While I enjoy the taste of Branston Rich & Fruity Sauce, there are a couple of ingredients listed which are worth noting, namely the Sulphur Dioxide preservative and the added colouring. HP advertises that no preservatives or colouring are used in their sauce. If Branston were to improve on anything here, it should be to live up to a similar standard.

Comparing HP & Branston “fruity” Brown Sauces leaves me with the following impression. HP Mild & Tangy: Slightly milder with a malty, fruity finish. Branston Rich & Fruity: Slightly richer and thicker with a spicier citrus (less malty) finish.

So, for bacon sarnies “straight up” it’s HP (Original or Mild & Tangy if available). For a slightly more zesty taste, throw in some bacon and tomato and call on Branston for a nice finish. The mouth waters!!

This entry was posted on Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 at 1:17pm. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response or trackback from your own site.